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Thread: Picked up another Gerorge Scherr Chest

  1. #1
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    Picked up another Gerorge Scherr Chest

    After refreshing the George Scherr chest for Richard, I kept my eye out for one. I snapped on up on Ebay.

    Main differences from Gerstners - hardware is riveted on. Well, not exactly riveted; they are square nails, bent over on the inside. Most panels are solid wood. Hardware has a black finish instead of nickel plating. Two locks and no internal pins for fixing front panel in place.

    s4.jpgIMG_0468.jpgs1.jpg

    The attached thumbnail is of a Union Craftsman chest. It got in here by mistake and I couldn't get rid of it!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by user459; 08-15-2015 at 06:26 AM.

  2. #2
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    I finished the George Scherr. I ended up black anodizing the hardware and reattaching it with black anodized screws in place of rivets.

    IMG_0611.jpgIMG_0610.jpgIMG_0609.jpgIMG_0608.jpg

  3. #3
    Looks great. You've managed to keep it original as possible. I bought one of those rivet removing drill attachments on CL you were talking about on , but couldn't keep the thing over the head of the rivet. It kept drifting off. I ended resorting on the old method. It was new, but there were no instructions. I even tried grounding the rounded heads flat, but it still drifted off and on to the hardware.

  4. #4
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    Bill,

    I've had good luck with my rivet removing tool. I had to adjust it so there was some space between the rivet and the point of the drill when the sleeve was placed over the head of the rivet. I hold it tightly over the rivet and tight to the workpiece. Then, starting the drill on high speed, I slowly lowered it to make an indent in the head. That way it was perfectly centered. The trick is to select the right diameter sleeve and to keep constant pressure on it to make sure it is well seated surrounding the rivet head. Then, with the drill bit hitting the center, drill away! (Not easy for me with my bad paw!) You don't have to drill far before it pops through the head. Sometimes I use a drop of oil on the pilot hole to help in the cutting of the drill bit.

    Maybe I'll post a video on my website.....

    Good Luck!

    Terry

  5. #5
    Thanks for the info. I'll try again on the next chest I get, which may be a while unless my other ones start selling quickly. Right now, I'm working on restoring an old child version (20's) of a Morris chair made out of oak. I'm taking a break on the mdl 72 I was working on. The drawers came out good, but for some reason, I messed up on staining the box. I just need to walk away from it for a while and then I will start over again when I'm in a better frame of mind. I'm also waiting on that mdl 014 5 drawer from Gerstner. I bit the bullet and sent it to them for a new wrap. I've done all the other parts. I had them install the original handle, which was in good shape. I also had them install the original Florentine hinges and lock that I saved and polished up. Can't wait to see it. I'll then install the hasps, the corner protectors and feet myself. Then it goes in my collection. If it comes out the way I hope, I've got a small old wrapped mdl 41 that has the rectangle lock and mahogany drawer fronts that I may have them do, but I have to sell some chests to pay for that.

  6. #6
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    Great job Terry! How hard/costly was the annodization? That's actually a really good idea, it pops against the lighter colored wood, looks fantastic.

  7. #7
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    Blackening Solution

    IMG_7716.jpgI

    t was neither hard nor expensive. I dipped the screws and hardware in a blackening solution I use in restoring parts on my Alfa Romeos. When they were black enough, they were rinsed and dried, then given a clear coat. I used to be able to buy just a bottle of the solution from Eastwood. Now I notice they only sell it as part of a kit:

    http://www.eastwood.com/metal-blackening-system.html

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