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Thread: Felt question

  1. #16
    Senior Member
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    Well played. I'm glad you have developed your own way of doing things. I do iron felt that has been creased or that has a tight roll to it. It's much easier to fit flat felt.

    Where do I send the 2 cents?

  2. #17
    Hi all,
    Thanks for the great advice. I have finished felting the drawers, using Titebond liquid hide glue, which I pre-heat in a pot of hot tap water which seems to make it easier for me to use. My question is about re-felting the till and the lid. How do you use the hot water to loosen the old felt in the till and lid (bottom and sides of both)? Need to take all the drawers out and lay the chest down for the lid? How about the sides - how to loosen the original hide glue?
    Last edited by guidoboston; 12-19-2019 at 05:34 PM. Reason: Fix typo in "felting"

  3. #18
    Senior Member
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    I use a spray bottle from a big box store and fill it with hot water and a few drops of liquid dish detergent. I spray and soak the felt, close the top, and walk way. The walking away is the hard part... there is no need to flip the box on its back if you do it this way, plus it results in less warping and delamination than pouring hot water into it.

    When I have given it sufficient time, I use an awl to lift a corner and pull it out. The sides usually pull right out if they have been sufficiently sprayed.

  4. #19
    Awesome - what a great idea. Thanks, Terry! I will give this a try.

  5. #20
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    Let me know how it works out for you,

    Terry

  6. #21
    Another felt issue I just remembered...

    Before getting into "the obsession" (as Terry calls it) I wanted to add felt to line a small box that I had. I bought some self-adhesive felt to do the job. I don't know what kind of adhesive they used on the felt but you could probably pull a train with it. What made it miserable to work with was that as soon as you set the stuff down it grabbed. Then if you tried to re-position it it would stretch and no longer be square. It didn't have the sizing in it that the Gerstner stuff has. It was really limp so when you tried to get it started it would just want to droop down and cling to whatever was underneath it.

    Just thought I'd share that experience.

    Bill
    Bill Sartore

    www.microlumina.com - Miniature lighting for model railroad structures

  7. #22
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    I had the same learning curve experience. THat stretchy felt is too hard to work with. I'll stick with my Gerstner felt and hot hide glue method.

  8. #23
    I saw a video on youtube where a guy used 3M spray adhesive because he was too cheap to purchase whew glue.... Its made my skin crawl... If $30-$40 for some glue is too much you probably shouldn't be a Gerstner enthusiast... lol just my 3,000 - 4,000 cents... haha!! I've refelted 2 boxes so far and some drawers in an old carpenters chest, using Gerstner felt and whew glue. IMHO there IS no other way.... over 100 year of perfection can't be wrong.

  9. #24
    Getting ready to glue the felt back in the drawers. Did you put the whew glue directly on the bottom of the drawers or on the felt ? What's the best way to cut the felt ? Thanks..Joe

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by jdonovan View Post
    Getting ready to glue the felt back in the drawers. Did you put the whew glue directly on the bottom of the drawers or on the felt ? What's the best way to cut the felt ? Thanks..Joe
    Directly on the surface, NOT the felt. A straight edge (ruler) or a square and either a razor or razor cutting wheel.

  11. #26

    Felt replacement

    When doing new felt on the drawers and inside of the tool box, I also like to do the sides. Does anyone else prefer this?

    20200327_122457[1].jpg

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